Meet the Yorkshire sustainable jeweller inspired by her parents make do and mend attitude

“Electrical devices contain tiny bits of precious metal and there is this growing awareness that instead of mining for silver and gold there is so much in landfill that has not been harvested - until recently,” she explains.

For Lau, this is just one element of the sustainable way she works. “I am much more careful about where I buy from, asking questions about provenance, because if we can reduce the need to mine for new material by using what is already available.”

Growing up with her older Chinese parents, Lau soon learned the value and importance of reusing and recycling. “I remember my dad showing me how to make origami from Chinese newspapers. We made fancy dress costumes for school and we would use left over wallpaper to make hats – my interest in materials came from my Dad and ‘make do and mend’ – he would save electrical components and hardware, and reuse what we already had.”

Inspired by the simple crafting sessions she enjoyed with her father, and the creative potential of throw away items, Lau was keen to pursue her studies in Art.

She took her GCSE Design and Technology, A’ Level Art and studied Art and Design Foundation at Dewsbury College, followed by Textile Crafts at Huddersfield University. From there she went on to the Royal College of Art in London where her interest in jewellery developed.

“Reflecting back, jewellery has always had a big significance in my life because my mum used to show me precious Chinese gold and jade jewellery that was given to me when I was a baby. I remember sitting and pouring over these little treasures, and being filled up with loving wishes from family. I have always been fascinated by jewellery as living artefacts, able to hold memories and stories from the past,” says Lau.

The creative vibe from living and studying in London suited her and she began creating unique pieces of jewellery from found materials such as the rubber stoppers to secure clothing on hangers; cable ties and metal guitar strings. “I started making jewellery at university because I was already experimenting with materials. I would wander into shops and find interesting materials that were not for jewellery but were full of potential."

Sculptured jewellery adornments created from fabrics including jersey material, macrame and shock cord elastic were among her designs influenced by her interest in pioneering Japanese fashion, and inspired by designers including Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake. “With my studying textiles, I was always interested in blurring the boundaries between jewellery and clothing.” The fantasy element in Lau’s work came from watching historical Chinese dramas as a child.

“I drew more from my imagination and memories, from film and music and sci-fi,” she says. During her studies she was able to visit various departments and learn different disciplines. I absolutely loved it. It was such a melting pot of creative people, ideas and possibilities, and I was always encouraged to go to the different departments and connect with people from different disciplines. I could go into the jewellery department where I first learned how to melt and shape metal.”

After graduating from the Royal College of Art with a Masters degree in Mixed Media Textiles, Lau received an invitation to showcase her work at a trade show in London and was soon working with independent fashion retailers. Having taken a break to go travelling, she returned home to Huddersfield and in 2006 set up her jewellery design studio at Bates Mill in the town. Soon her handmade collections were selling to more than a dozen independent retailers throughout England.

As Lau developed her sculptural jewellery with textiles and gemstones, she was commissioned by DKNY London to design an exclusive collection for Harvey Nichols and Harrods. In 2008 she launched her first eponymous high-end collection at The Tower of London which was then sold at Selfridges for several seasons.

Since then, and having spent a couple of years in East London, Lau has re-located to her home studio and spent time focusing on creating a new collection incorporating freshwater pearls and recycled silver.

“I have always had a thing about pearls – the classic pearl necklace everybody’s mum and Grandma has, and if I work with something that has a strong nostalgia and classic connotations, I want to de-construct it. It has a multi-layered meaning for me, and it marks a new direction for my work because it is a finer material, it is a naturally made gemstone, like a gift from nature. It does not require any cutting or machinery to shape it. Pearls are naturally formed and that is what I am drawn to.”

In contrast to her previous work which, she says, demonstrated a darker and dramatic theme, Lau’s new collection is more wearable and simplified. “I want to work with purer, more sustainable materials like precious metals and gemstones. Pearls actually have a real sustainability around them because for a pearl farm to produce them they have to create a safe eco system where the water has to be really clean. Pearls have a way of capturing a holiday feeling and they look beautiful when worn against the skin.”

Lau’s sustainable approach to her designs not only taps into her environmental consciousness, it also allows her to pass on that important message to her clients.

Since re-launching the business, which takes its name from her own, Lau wants to develop customer involvement in creating bespoke pieces, especially brides who are seeking an ever-lasting and uniquely meaningful, wearable item of jewellery for their Big Day and beyond. Her new collection RE:LOOP, echoes the simplicity of her jewellery creations and the new direction she is keen to take, with a made to order rather than an over produced approach. Bracelets, earrings and necklaces are among this diverse range of wearable statement pieces featuring the bolder braids and knots in contrast to the more delicate and ethereal designs with gemstones such as pearls, all stamped with the hallmarks of sustainability.

“All the sterling silver clasps and chains are made from eco-silver, a mix of 95 per cent recycled and five per cent ethically sourced silver,” explains Maria.“I was creating a new collection again and the starting point was the sustainability question. I am eco-minded and I think it is important, not only working sustainably to make jewellery that will last, but also looking at how I develop my business, reducing my environmental impact. It is important to buy less and better quality so it lasts, and it has become a part of my evolution.”

To see more of Maria Lau’s work visit marialau.co.uk.