We take a look inside the new Ivy Asia in Leeds and see if it lives up to the billing

There are 37 'Ivys ' now, three here in Yorkshire. Some are listed as brasseries or cafés, some simply The Ivy. There seems to be little between them except size and location. They share the fundamental Ivy style of good food, old-school service and a sumptuous décor unique to each, but in a way that still feels quintessentially Ivy.

But, now they have a new collection member, Ivy Asia, a massive switch of direction that I can't help but wonder if they may have dropped the ball on this one.

But be prepared to be impressed. I was at the one that opened in Leeds in October.

It is a dazzling venue above their sister restaurant and a spit away from Harvey Nics in the Victoria Quarter. Ivy Asia is a showy, loud, brightly coloured affair with an ostentatious but glorious emerald glass floor, mirrored ceilings, blossom trees in full flower, a fabulous central bar, and staff gliding purposefully about the place.

There is even a gigantic model Samurai warrior in the gents’ loo. The theatrical spectacle assaulted my senses with its colours, and the beating music - not exactly background but not intrusive enough for us to shout – had me dancing in my seat as I took everything in, and I loved it.

But I must address the tag of Asia on the food, a continent that covers 30 per cent of our planet and covers many countries and styles of food. With much controversial press on the cultural misappropriation of foods from Asia, how does that boil down to a menu in Leeds on a Tuesday night? Not easily, I must say, especially as the menu here is not vast and seems to hover more towards Japan than anywhere else. Perhaps they want to keep their options open?

While we wait for our drinks, I watch as beautifully decorated sharing platters, some looking like bonsai trees, monkeys and snakes, are carried to tables already groaning with food. I think the same sense of décor has been applied to the food here.

I also admire the lovely table settings, which are utterly charming; I particularly like the upturned brass fish for resting our chopsticks on, which is stamped underneath with Stolen from the Ivy. This makes me laugh as I imagine many are making their way home with customers, though not stunning large decorative brass lotus flower napkin rings encrusted with turquoise glass. However, I doubt they make it into a handbag as they are whipped away before I have time to pick them up to admire.

There is no set order of courses here; the food arrives from the kitchen when it is ready, and when it does, it comes out quickly and is worth any wait, and we tuck into what feels like a banquet though, in fact, we have only ordered five plates, three of the smaller ones and two large.

First come four fist-sized chunks of glistening, squeaky fresh salmon sashimi dressed with fine glass noodles, coriander, spiced yuzu and avocado salsa. Personally, I could have eaten them all, and this was the best sashimi I can remember for a long time.

Then came five thick maki rice rolls, each stuffed with a different fish, finished with nori and dressed with pickled ginger and fresh wasabi. If this sounds a bit pedestrian, it was far from it. Each piece was at least two mouthfuls of deliciousness. Our final smaller plate, which we almost fought over, was another dish of addictively good sesame-crusted prawn dumplings.

The first of our large plates was a hefty piece of lamb rump with miso aubergine served under a smoke-filled glass dome; a clichéd way of serving that has been around a while, but here it seemed fitting. The lamb was meltingly good, with just enough smoke to heighten the flavour rather than dominate it.

A dish of chilli noodles with glazed Japanese mushrooms, asparagus, cashew and lime was the least decorative dish, but what a flavour. The hit of chilli was bang on; it was hot but not searing our tastebuds into oblivion which can happen so often in the wrong hands.

I honestly thought that this time we couldn't squeeze in a pudding. Still, our charming head waiter David was very persuasive and upside-down white chocolate, and Yuzu cheesecake, ice cream, mochi, pineapple and watermelon did not disappoint. We are glad we persevered; it was something special.

Have they dropped the ball with Ivy Asia?

They may have rubbed some of the glitter from the original Ivy with their now chain approach, and though I am still unsure why they have gone down the Asian route in city centres oozing with small, multi-cultural restaurants, I did love it. This is a very different offer and price point, and done very well. Their staff are excellent, as is the food.

When we arrived at 7pm, The Ivy was busy with a mix of all ages, families and a few celebrations. But, by the end of dinner, I noticed a change. The age range had dropped, and the glamour soared; it seemed for many the night had just begun as we contemplated driving home and bed after a fabulous night out – it was only 9.30 pm.

The Ivy Asia Leeds, 55-57 Vicar Ln, Leeds LS1 6BA, Tel: 01135317990

Open for food: Mon – Thurs: 11:30 am - 10:45 pm, Fri – Sat: 11.30 am – 11.30 pm,

Sun: 11.30am – 9.30pm